What is oily skin?

Oily skin is a type of skin with overreactive sebaceous glands that essentially work overtime, secreting excess sebum that has a thicker and stickier feel to its composition, thus creating (when combined with dead skin cells and bacteria) a breeding ground for blackheads and pimples. But oily skin is not necessarily prone to blemishes. Sometimes only a few noticeable dilated pores, especially on the T-zone, are a giveaway sign that you have oily skin.

Oily skin might feel a little rougher, but beware – underneath its seemingly ‘tougher’ exterior, it is still delicate. If treated too harshly (with an overly purifying, over-stripping routine), oily skin can show signs of sensitivity. If it feels attacked, it may even rebel, causing the famous ‘rebound effect’ (overproduction of sebum in response to skin barrier disruption). Gentle, consistent care is the key to getting it back on track...

What causes oily skin?

Internal factors

Sebaceous glands are controlled by certain hormones called androgens (also sometimes referred to as male hormones – which is why men are often more prone to excess sebum). Hormonal fluctuations relating to these hormones – for example, around menstruation when there is an androgenic peak – can lead to excessive shine.

Certain hormone treatments can also alter sebaceous gland activity, affecting oiliness. 

External factors

Perhaps you've noticed that your skin shines more in the spring or summer? This is perfectly normal. A 1°C increase in skin temperature triggers a 10% increase in sebum production.

Oiliness can also be affected by your choice of skincare products. Skin that is regularly weakened by irritant products can come to defend itself by producing more oil, resulting in excessive shine. Harsh products that dry out the skin, such as some alcoholic toners, can also trigger this effect.

How to stop having oily skin?

Double cleanse

Double cleansing is ideal for all skin types – it is the most effective and gentle cleansing method. By meticulously cleansing your face every night, you can help your skin better receive specific skincare products. Skin that is well-cleansed is better oxygenated and will benefit more fully from the products you apply to it as part of your routine. For us, double cleansing is the most important step in any skincare routine! 

Start by removing makeup with an oil or a balm makeup remover. This product will emulsify all the fatty substances present on the surface of your skin, such as sebum, pollution and makeup (including waterproof mascara!). As a result, this is the most delicate way to eliminate shine without damaging or drying out the skin. Little by little, this method allows you to rebalance and gently cleanse oily skin. Moreover, it helps soften the skin and bring comfort to it. These benefits are perfect when it comes to caring for sensitive or dehydrated areas, such as the cheeks.

Cleansing Gels

Then, as a second step, follow the oil or balm with a foaming but soap-free cleansing gel, to deeply cleanse the skin. This gentle cleanser will also begin to treat your oily skin problems – excess sebum, blemishes or blotchy complexion – while helping your skin feel fresh and pure. Looking for a cleansing product that has a soft and silky texture? Cleansing creams are not just for dry skin: some are formulated with a clay base and are particularly suitable for oily skin.

Gently exfoliate to purify oily skin

Exfoliation is an essential step for achieving beautiful skin (provided you use a gentle exfoliant that doesn’t irritate the skin)! By eliminating excess dead cells, exfoliation optimises how well your skincare’s active ingredients penetrate your skin. It also helps skin feel softer and enhances glow, while combating minor blemishes (dark spots, pimples and dilated pores).

Protect your skin with a caring oil

Finally, finish off your routine by protecting your skin with a caring face oil that’s specifically adapted to oily skin. So long as it’s plant-based and has a fine texture, using a face oil will help regulate oily skin. Rich in essential fatty acids and nutrients, applying face oil is an integral part of your skincare routine, bringing comfort to the skin while helping fight against dehydration. It also provides the skin with the oil it needs to stop producing excess sebum.

Oily Skin DOs & DON’Ts – beauty tips for avoiding shine

The DO's 

- Keep in mind that cleansing should be thorough, but never harsh or aggressive. A simple one-step cleanse in the morning is adequate. In the evening, double cleansing is key, using products that include purifying and antibacterial ingredients.

- Focus on absorbent skin care products, such as mattifying creams that absorb excess sebum (thanks to the presence of blotting powders) and rebalance skin in the long term.

- Exfoliate once or twice a week, since oily skin can clog up more quickly than other skin types. Ideally use an enzymatic or chemical exfoliant (we love antibacterial Salicylic Acid), rather than a mechanical exfoliant with a grain texture, to avoid aggressing your skin.

- Couple exfoliation with a deep cleansing mask (with green clay for example) – perfect for eliminating shine, tightening pores and revealing a fresh complexion.

The DON'Ts

- Avoid stripping your skin with detergent soaps, alcohol-based lotions or grainy scrubs, as this will only boost sebum production and make your skin sensitive. On the other hand, do not choose cleansing milks that are too greasy either, as these may leave further oily residue on your skin.

- Banish mineral oils (avoiding formulas that include Mineral Oils or Paraffinum Liquidum) that have a strong protective power thanks to their film-forming action, but that may contribute to trapping sebum and dead skin cells, in oily skin prone to blemishes. Instead, opt for plant-based oils that have a lighter feel.

- Beware of the sun, which is a false friend: it may initially dry out pimples but sun exposure can worsen spots through inflammation, skin barrier damage and pigmentation.