(Clean) Beauty by Oh My Cream

At its core, Oh My Cream was born from passion and a desire to make a difference. It's also a story of women united by the shared conviction to reinvent the beauty industry. Our promise? To offer all women access to an alternative kind of beauty: cleaner, more expert, and more inspiring.

Clean beauty is likely the most debated aspect of our concept—and rightly so, because there is no official definition (unlike 100% natural or all-organic, which aren't necessarily the ideal solution for everyone!).

 

"For us, the word ‘clean’ is first and foremost a state of mind. It means being absolutely transparent about our products and our actions. And it also signifies giving our community all of the information you need to make the right choices."

Clean beauty at Oh My Cream is more than just a set of rules—it’s a mindset, one that can’t simply be reduced to a formulation charter. Above all, it’s about finding balance, a compromise that’s not always as easy as we’d like you to think, between effectiveness, safety, and eco-responsibility.

Effectiveness of clean beauty

Our first challenge is cutting through the noise of misleading beauty claims. Tired of "empty" formulas, we track down the superfluous and the useless (which in the worst case is likely to provoke a reaction), against the tide of long blacklists, we focus on the active ingredients (whose coherence and concentration we study), and finally, we analyse a composition as a whole (contrary to "beauty applications", which are a bit Manichean for our taste), to evaluate the added value of a product and to be able to justify its price.

Safety

It’s true that in France, we benefit from the protection of European legislation, the strictest in the world. However, in a time when controversies are growing and it’s becoming harder to separate fact from fiction, we’ve conducted our own research, supported by numerous experts (toxicologists, regulators, and formulators from various backgrounds), and come to the conclusion that no ingredient is entirely black or white.

But rather than remaining neutral just because there’s no definitive answer, we believe it’s important to inform you and take a clear stance on the convictions we’ve formed. While it’s up to each individual to decide whether or not to apply their own precautionary principle, we consider it our responsibility as distributors to share with you the list of ingredients that raise serious concerns. We’re not labeling them as harmful to health, but we believe it’s more prudent to temporarily exclude them until a final decision is made by regulators.

Eco-Responsibility in Clean Beauty

Limiting the environmental impact of clean beauty is, of course, a top priority. We acknowledge that our products aren’t perfect in this regard, as there is no one-size-fits-all solution at the moment.

However, just like in other areas, it’s about finding balance and compromise. That’s why we require our brands to adopt an approach—whatever form it takes, as long as it’s sincere and consistent—that evolves over time. Whether it’s fighting against over-packaging, prioritising recycled and recyclable materials, donating a portion of profits to charity, staying vigilant about polluting raw materials, or even reducing their carbon footprint by sourcing ingredients locally, we expect progress.

But since this, too, is a question of balance and compromise, we ask the brands we work with to adopt a thoughtful approach—whatever form it takes, as long as it’s sincere and consistent—that evolves over time. Whether it’s reducing excess packaging, prioritising recycled and recyclable materials, donating a portion of profits to charity, staying mindful of the use of polluting raw materials, or limiting their carbon footprint by sourcing ingredients locally, we believe every step counts.

Our Clean Beauty Ingredients Commitment

A detailed analysis of the ingredients in our Clean Beauty selection

At Oh My Cream, we pay close attention to the composition of the products we choose to carry. While our vision of "clean beauty" goes beyond simple ingredient blacklists, we want to share our stance on certain ingredient families that are currently in the spotlight.

Below, you’ll find two lists: the first includes ingredients we have excluded (as a precaution—there is rarely an absolute truth in this area!), and the second features ingredients we tolerate but monitor very carefully.

As regulations evolve constantly, we’re committed to regularly updating both lists (last updated: March 2025). That’s why we work closely with a panel of experts—including toxicologists and formulators from diverse backgrounds—as well as a regulatory body that monitors international developments. Our stance is not set in stone: we evolve with the industry, adapting to changes in regulation (which often require brands to reformulate), cosmetic innovation (which drives reformulation), and scientific progress (which provides credible alternatives to controversial ingredients).

And because we know these are our own convictions, we want to give you the freedom to make informed choices based on your own values and sensitivities. That’s why we offer a wide range of cosmeceutical brands (blending the best of science and nature), natural brands, and certified organic brands. You can also ask us anything—whether in-store or by emailing contact@ohmycream.com (our advisors are real beauty encyclopedias!).

 

Our methodology

European regulations provide a solid (and reassuring) foundation for clean cosmetic formulation. But that’s just the beginning. Two independent bodies, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) and the CORAP (Community Rolling Action Plan), are continuously analyzing and scrutinizing ingredients. Acting as watchdogs, these organizations prioritize substances for reassessment over time, ensuring they pose no risk to human health or the environment. That’s why we’ve made the decision to exclude ingredients currently undergoing re-evaluation.

Ingredients temporarily excluded

European legislation remains the strictest in the world. While everyone is entitled to make their own choices based on caution or personal preferences, we don’t believe that authorized ingredients pose a health risk. This is especially true since some controversial ingredients are often replaced with molecules that science has yet to fully study. However, for a very small number of ingredient families currently under re-evaluation, we’ve decided to exclude them from the formulas we reference. To be clear, we are not labeling them as "toxic" or "bad," but, in the spirit of transparency, we no longer use them personally — and we consider ourselves our first customers.

Cyclic silicones include cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclohexasiloxane.

In simple terms, silicones are mainly used to "texturize" a product, making it easier to apply, improving the longevity of makeup, helping to prevent water loss by creating a protective layer on the skin's surface, or stabilizing specific active ingredients (such as retinol or peptides, for example).

There are two main types of silicones:

  1. "Heavy" silicones, like dimethicone, which stay on the surface of the skin. These are harmless, and their safety is well-established.

  2. "Volatile" silicones, which evaporate when they come into contact with the heat of the skin. This group includes all silicones that begin with "cyclo-." These are suspected of potentially disrupting the endocrine system, and some are currently under re-evaluation by regulatory bodies. In fact, some of these silicones have already been banned in rinse-off products, and it's possible that, in a few years, non-rinse-off products will follow suit. For this reason, we’ve decided to remove them from our formulations.

At Oh My Cream, we advocate for moderation, and the sun is one of life’s pleasures best enjoyed in small doses. To protect your skin, we prefer to recommend certain mineral filters, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, as well as some chemical filtres, like avobenzone (though there are others). For your information, no sunscreen filter is 100% flawless at this time. Formulators must therefore carefully balance the available options to offer the best possible protection with good skin tolerance and minimal environmental impact. We hold our brands to high standards on this front, but we also recognize that sun protection is essential to safeguarding your skin from further damage. That’s why we’ve curated a selection of products with various textures and scents to help you protect yourself when you're out in the sun.

However, we have decided to exclude homosalate and benzophenone, as they are currently being re-evaluated, and the concerns regarding their potential effects on the endocrine system are too significant.

As for octocrylene, it has been under review by the SCCS for several years due to its suspected endocrine-disrupting potential. In March 2021, the SCCS concluded that its use is safe at concentrations up to 10% (the current limit set by the Cosmetics Regulation) in cosmetic products. Therefore, we accept octocrylene in our standards, as the SCCS found insufficient evidence to categorize it as a potential endocrine disruptor.

Once again, we’re not questioning the importance of preservatives in cosmetics. They are essential in ensuring that we can enjoy the full benefits of our skincare products while keeping our beloved formulas free from microbial contamination.

Ingredients we tolerate but watch carefully

When a product contains an ingredient of concern, we ensure that its concentration is as low as possible—often well below the threshold set by European legislation. We also take into account the product’s intended purpose, frequency of use, and the cumulative effect of controversial ingredients.

While we’re diligent about eliminating the unnecessary, we don’t completely ban inert ingredients (those that don’t pose a risk to the skin but also don’t provide specific benefits, like mineral oils, certain silicones, perfumes, SLS, etc.). However, we make sure these ingredients don’t make up the majority of the formula. Additionally, when an ingredient could cause a reaction in certain skin types, we verify that the product is not intended for that specific target. For example, while mineral oil is safe for dry, mature skin, it’s not suitable for problem skin, as its film-forming properties can potentially exacerbate imperfections.

 

Derived from petrochemicals, mineral oils are inert on the skin and completely harmless. So why are they excluded? Their chemical composition has no affinity with the skin, meaning they remain on the surface, forming a protective barrier. This is why mineral oils are often used in products for babies or very dry skin. In addition to their barrier effect (which helps limit water loss), they are well tolerated and do not react with other ingredients in the formula. Their lipophilic properties also allow them to emulsify other impurities.

At Oh My Cream, we accept them in products formulated for dry or mature skin, where they act as a protective layer while the natural ingredients address the underlying issues. However, we believe they have no place in products designed for skin with imperfections.

They’re the foaming agents responsible for the pretty bubbles in your favorite shampoo! Often criticized for being too effective, these ingredients can be a bit irritating to the skin and eyes due to their strong foaming power. Fortunately, this downside can be mitigated by combining them with gentler foaming agents (such as coconut derivatives). Brands have also significantly reduced the percentage of sulfates in their formulas. While we keep a close eye on them, we don’t blacklist them. It’s all about the right dosage and combination!

This small molecule belongs to the category of beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). In addition to its exfoliating action, it is well-known for regulating sebum production and having a powerful anti-imperfection effect. It also acts as a good preservative.

In an opinion published at the end of 2018, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that salicylic acid is safe when used according to the regulations. As both a preservative and an active ingredient, it is allowed at limited concentrations, though it is prohibited in toothpastes, products that may be inhaled, and products intended for children under 3 years old.

As such, we continue to accept this ingredient but monitor closely the products in which it is used.

Quats include ingredients such as Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Cetrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Behentrimonium Methosulfate.

These are commonly used as hair conditioners and are known for their excellent detangling properties. Some also serve a preservative role.

At higher concentrations, quats can be irritating, and their manufacturing process raises ecological concerns. Since this family of ingredients is quite large and varied (for example, Quaternium-15 has been banned), not all of them have the same structure. However, they are currently one of the few alternatives to silicones. At Oh My Cream, we do not ban them but monitor their use closely in formulas. We also prefer Behentrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which are effective alternatives commonly used in natural cosmetics.

These are emulsifiers that act as texture agents and help "push" the active ingredients deeper into the skin. Some also function as humectants, meaning they retain water and prevent dryness.

While their ecological impact is not negligible (particularly regarding their manufacturing process), this family of ingredients does not pose any health risks. Therefore, we have chosen not to blacklist them—not because we don’t care about the environment, but because we want to offer products suitable for all skin types.

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative widely used in cosmetics, especially following the post-paraben era. While some people have raised concerns, claiming it may be an endocrine disruptor, there is currently no scientific evidence to support these claims.

Furthermore, at the maximum authorized dosage (1%), studies have shown that you would need to apply 47 jars of cream to your face to reach a "toxic" dose. Given that many brands don’t even use this maximum percentage, you can confidently use your favorite products with peace of mind.

These are chelating agents, meaning they can bind to other molecules, helping to keep the formula stable. They have no impact on health. However, it is true that these ingredients have a significant environmental impact: they do not break down in the environment and continue to "capture" molecules.

Given their harmlessness and effectiveness (though natural alternatives exist, they are less effective), we have decided not to use them for the time being.

It is true that some fragrance molecules can be allergenic or sensitising. Those that are allergenic must be listed at the very end of the ingredient list if they exceed a certain threshold: 0.01% in rinsed products and 0.001% in non-rinsed products, so people who are allergic to them can identify them. Why aren't they listed below these thresholds? Because these are the levels at which an allergic reaction might trigger in sensitised individuals.

It is also important to note that natural perfumes are often more allergenic than synthetic ones. To fragrance a product naturally, essential oils are typically used. However, these are complex ingredients, sometimes containing over a hundred molecules, which means there are many different compounds for sensitive skin to "process."

We have therefore chosen to feature brands that use both synthetic and natural fragrances, as we believe this greatly enhances the sensory experience of a product. To cater to all skin types, we also offer fragrance-free options.

The key ingredients we prioritize in our formulas

While we are committed to excluding certain cosmetic ingredients (which we personally no longer use), we dedicate even more effort to selecting products with the cleanest, most expert, and effective compositions possible. Since it's impossible to list every ingredient, we’ve highlighted a non-exhaustive selection of clean beauty ingredients that we favor in our range!

We greatly value natural ingredients, but we also embrace high-quality synthetic actives. We firmly believe that science has just as much to offer as natural and/or certified organic cosmetics. For example, some very sensitive skins may not tolerate a 100% natural formulation, and in the realm of anti-aging, significant progress has been made by cosmeceutical brands. Ultimately, it's up to each individual to decide where to draw the line.

Floral waters (or hydrolats) are the by-products of the distillation process used to extract essential oils. They are distilled waters—much less concentrated than essential oils—yet packed with valuable cosmetic benefits. Soothing, moisturizing, balancing… floral waters offer a wide range of benefits. They are primarily used in tonics, either on their own or in combination with other active ingredients or hydrolats. With so many varieties available, the benefits of floral waters are as diverse as the flowers themselves.

Floral waters are a key ingredient in several lotions and tonics, including: 

Ah, plant oils! They are the stars of our cosmetic products, found in nearly every skincare item, often as the "base" of a formula. Each oil brings its own unique benefits: beyond their nourishing properties, they can boost regeneration, regulate, illuminate, and protect – offering something for every skin type, even combination or oily skin!

You’ll find these wonderful vegetable oils in the following products:

  • Nourishing Oil Cleanser by Tata Harper, a blend of 6 precious vegetable oils.

  • Correcting Oil by Oh My Cream Skincare, featuring macadamia and sesame oils.

    • BioRegenerate Oil by Pai Skincare, the cult oil with wild rose.

    • My Huilette Night by The Oilttes, a rich combination of argan, jojoba, and avocado oils.

Essential oils are concentrated natural powerhouses. While they are increasingly found in medicine cabinets, they are also widely used in clean cosmetics (such as moisturizing creams, care oils, or serums). Renowned for their purifying, regenerating, anti-aging, and soothing properties, essential oils can also replace synthetic fragrances or be used to naturally preserve a product.

The number of varieties is incalculable, as it would be like trying to cover every inch of the globe! To name just a few plants that are popular at Oh My Cream: aloe vera is perfect for moisturizing and repairing the skin, oatmeal is incredibly soothing, arnica is a natural anti-inflammatory, green tea offers astringent and detoxifying benefits, and chamomile is highly effective for calming redness and discomfort.

You can find these ingredients in the following products, for example:

You will find it in the following products, for example:

Superfoods aren’t just good for our bodies; they’re also great for our skin! We love incorporating them into our cosmetics for their powerful antioxidant properties. But why are antioxidants so important? Our bodies and skin naturally store antioxidants that help combat free radicals (molecules that disrupt cellular function) every day. The issue arises when factors like excessive stress, pollution, and poor diet interfere, throwing off the balance between antioxidants and free radicals—this is known as oxidative stress. So, just like the importance of eating 5 fruits and vegetables a day, it’s essential to use treatments rich in superfoods like pomegranate, goji berries, and broccoli.

Here are some care products packed with superfoods:

Mainly found in purifying and detoxifying masks, there’s a wide variety of clays to suit all skin types. Why do we love them so much? Acting like magnets on the skin’s surface, they effectively absorb impurities and tighten pores. But that’s not all... Many clays also offer anti-pollution benefits and soothing properties, making them a go-to ingredient in numerous skincare products.

While fruit enzymes have the same exfoliating function as fruit acids, they are less potent, making them ideal for sensitive skin. This family includes ingredients like papaya, kiwi, apple, pumpkin, and pomegranate. By stimulating cell renewal, they help smooth the skin’s texture by gently sloughing off dead cells on the surface.

Fruit enzymes are found in the following scrubs:

The primary fruit acids used in cosmetics are lactic and glycolic acids, which belong to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family. These potent exfoliants stimulate cell renewal, microcirculation, and collagen production. We prefer chemical exfoliants based on fruit acids over traditional grainy scrubs because they are gentler and more respectful of the skin barrier.

Fruit acids can be found in masks, lotions and exfoliating powders:

We love this molecule for its ability to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water! Hyaluronic acid, though naturally present in the skin, depletes over time, leading to increased dehydration and the formation of fine lines. That’s why supplementing it with a cream or serum is not just a luxury—it’s essential!

This star moisturizing ingredient is found in many formulas:

Probiotics are the "guardian bacteria" our skin needs to protect itself from harmful microorganisms. They help rebalance and strengthen the skin's microbiome, making them especially beneficial for very sensitive skin. To learn more, check out our article on Our Favourite Skincare Products with Probiotics and Their Benefits.

Peptides are potent anti-aging actives that support the cell renewal process. Widely used in clean cosmetics, they are highly effective at slowing the appearance of wrinkles and the loss of skin firmness. By stimulating fibroblasts, peptides activate collagen production, completing the cycle of skin rejuvenation. They also offer anti-stain and anti-pollution benefits.

Our favourite anti-ageing treatments with peptides include :

Fine particles, exhaust fumes, and blue light accelerate aging, sensitize the skin, and dull the complexion. Vitamins are antioxidants by nature, but some active ingredients offer even higher antioxidant levels: superoxide dismutase, astaxanthin, glutathione (naturally present in our bodies), and resveratrol. These are particularly valued for their powerful protection against pollution, as they neutralize free radicals. Antioxidants are primarily found in highly technical skincare products.

Some treatments that harness the power of antioxidants to protect urban skin include:

Vitamin C (or L-ascorbic acid) is the ultimate radiance booster and anti-stain ingredient. It also neutralizes free radicals (such as those from pollution) and stimulates collagen production, making it a fantastic anti-aging active. We carefully select products with the highest quality vitamin C content, prioritizing stabilized formulas since vitamin C is very fragile. 

For a vitamin C boost, we rely on:

Retinol is a powerhouse anti-aging ingredient. Working deep within the skin, it boosts collagen and elastin production to help smooth fine lines and wrinkles. But that’s not all—it also accelerates cell renewal, improving skin texture and fading pigmentation spots or post-blemish marks. Today, gentler, non-irritating versions of retinol are available, so you can enjoy all the benefits without the drawbacks. And for sensitive skin? There's bakuchiol, a natural alternative that offers similar results—minus the irritation ;-)

Niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3) is a multi-tasking vitamin that has quickly become a star ingredient in skincare—especially in serums. Highly stable and well-tolerated by most skin types, it helps smooth skin texture, reduce blemishes, boost radiance, and stimulate collagen production, making it a powerful ally in any anti-aging routine. On top of that, like all good vitamins, it has antioxidant properties that help shield the skin from pollution. In short: niacinamide really does it all!

To see it in action, look to:

Plant stem cells, the result of cutting-edge scientific research, are prized in cosmetics for their remarkable ability to slow down skin ageing. These powerful actives help stimulate the skin’s natural regeneration process, encouraging cell renewal and supporting the skin’s firmness and vitality. At Oh My Cream, we firmly believe in this next-generation, high-performance anti-ageing technology!