Why you should really be using retinol

While retinol is the best-known active ingredient in the retinoid family, there are many different forms of retinoids. Retinoic acid is the most potent form and acts directly on the skin, whereas other retinoids, such as retinol, must first be converted into it. The various forms of retinoids include:

• Retinol esters: available without a prescription, these are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for sensitive and reactive skin.

• Retinol: the best-known retinoid, it's more effective than retinol esters but less potent than retinoic acid.

• Retinaldehyde: otherwise known as retinal, this is one of the most powerful non-prescription retinoids. It is particularly effective against acne thanks to its antibacterial properties, and its effects are similar to those of retinoic acid.

• Retinoic acid esters: far less irritating than retinol, retinoic acid esters convert into both retinol, for longer-lasting action, and retinoic acid, for an immediate effect.

• Retinoic acid: this is the most potent form of vitamin A, although it can also be the most irritating. It is available by prescription only and is commonly known as tretinoin.

It's not really a question of age, but rather one relating to your skin goals. Originally used to treat acne, and therefore often associated with younger skin, retinol also works wonders on visible signs of ageing, making it suitable for more mature skin, too. When it comes to anti-ageing, Kat Burki recommends using it “between the ages of 20 and 30 as a preventive measure, to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

“A retinol-based product can be incorporated into any skincare routine,” explains Paula Begoun. “It works perfectly well with other products.” However, Kat Burki advises a more considered approach: “It's important for retinol to be absorbed quickly. The lower the viscosity, the better. Oils and creams can hinder its absorption, so it's best to apply them after retinol.”

But the best combinations are often the simplest, as Nadine Pomarède points out: “Retinol can be combined with other antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E, for broader antioxidant protection. It can also be paired with hyaluronic acid, which has anti-ageing and hydrating benefits and helps counteract retinol’s drying effects, particularly when you’re first starting to use it.” For very reactive skin, it’s best to follow retinol with soothing ingredients such as “hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, green tea or jojoba oil,” advises Valérie Leduc.

• Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil: this lightweight face oil creates a shield against external aggressors and restores comfort and hydration to fragile skin, for a fresh, glowing complexion.

• Patyka Intensive Pro-Collagen Treatment: with its high-performance plant-based actives, this overnight mask delivers retinol-like benefits, stimulating collagen production to help firm and plump the skin, and smooth the appearance of wrinkles.

• Oh My Cream Skincare Firming Rich Cream: as suggested by its name, this pro-ageing moisturiser has an ultra-rich, enveloping texture. Enriched with gentle-on-the-skin bakuchiol, plus peptides, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, it leaves skin feeling not only comfortable, but smoother, plumper and bouncier too.

• Mimétique Skin Booster Face Oil: also formulated with bakuchiol, this barrier-boosting fine oil helps firm and nourish the skin, maintain skin elasticity, smooth fine lines and promote even skin tone and texture. Use it on its own, or mix a few drops into your face cream.