Why you really should be using retinol

What is retinol?

Here's what you need to know about retinol:

- It's a derivative of vitamin A - the first vitamin to be discovered, in 1913.

- It's also a chemical compound synthesized from isoprene or pentadiene.

- It belongs to the retinoid family.

- It is fat-soluble and extremely fragile - it deteriorates on contact with oxygen, light and heat.

Retinol had its heyday in the 1980s, when it flooded the market. Not surprising, since this molecule is capable of transforming the skin in just four weeks of use.

Retinol or Retinoids?

Retinoids is an umbrella term for retinol, encompassing both the retinol-based skincare products you'll find on Oh My Cream's shelves, and the retinol-based skincare products prescribed by healthcare professionals. Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, transformed into retinoic acid, which we find in our beauty care products. Retinol is one form of retinoid, whose molecular weight may differ from that of other retinoids. Other forms of retinoids include adapalene, a topical retinoid, and tretinoin, often used in acne treatments.

Which is the most effective form of retinol?

While retinol is the best-known active ingredient, there are many different forms of retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A. Whatever their strength, it's retinoic acid, the most powerful retinoid, that has the most immediate effect on the skin. Whatever their strength, it's retinoic acid, the most potent retinoid, that acts immediately on the skin. The various forms of retinoids include :

Retinol esters : available without prescription, these are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for sensitive and reactive skin.

Retinol: the best-known form of retinoid, more effective than retinol esters but less potent than retinoic acid.

Retinaldehyde: also available without prescription, this is the most powerful retinoid. It is particularly effective against acne thanks to its antibacterial properties, and its actions are similar to those of retinoic acid.

Retinoic acid esters : far less irritating than retinol, retinoic acid esters convert into both retinol, for a longer-lasting action, and retinoic acid, for an immediate effect.

Retinoic acid: this is the most effective form of vitamin A (and can be the most irritating). It is available by prescription only.

When to use retinol?

"Retinol is an active ingredient that oxidizes on contact with air and sunlight. It must be prepared and transported at low temperature, in an oxygen-free atmosphere”, explains Paula Begoun, founder of the Paula's Choice brand. A real challenge ! Dr. Nadine Pomarède, dermatologist and founder of the Dermo Medical Center in Paris and Brussels, adds: "The problem with retinol is to obtain a stable form for it to be effective. That's why it's so important to choose this super-powerful yet fragile active ingredient carefully , and to keep it for a maximum of three months.

What's more, "we recommend applying retinol at night, so that it is not degraded by sunlight" , explains Kat Burki, founder of the cosmetics line of the same name. “Valérie Leduc, a specialist in aesthetic medicine and co-founder of Maison Epigenetic in Paris, adds: "Always apply to cleansed, dry skin to avoid irritation.

What are the benefits of retinol?

Thanks to its keratolytic action, retinol smoothes the skin's surface texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening dilated pores, giving a radiant glow, promoting cell regeneration, stimulating the formation of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and fibroblasts... "Retinol also acts against free radicals, which are the consequence of exposure to UV rays, tobacco and pollution, and are responsible for cutaneous aging and epidermal degradation", adds Valérie Leduc. "Finally, it regulates the synthesis of melanin, limiting the formation of spots and diminishing their appearance. It has long been the treatment of choice for acne, for its action on sebum production and inflammation”.

“Vitamin A derivatives are also used as anti-imperfection active ingredients”, as Nadine Pomarède explains.

In fact, at dermal level, retinol protects against collagen degradation, stimulates fibroblasts and the production of elastin and hyaluronic acid. It also improves microcirculation and thus skin radiance. In short, because it addresses “a whole range of issues from anti-aging to acne,” Paula Begoun concludes, “retinol is an excellent active ingredient for skin maintenance and repair.

How often should I use retinol?

It depends on your skin type and the skin issue you want to target. For example, for acne-prone skin, you need a low dose of retinol over a short period of time. In fact, if used for too long, retinol might thin and sensitise the skin.

Of course, if you are using a strong dose it’s best to seek advice from dermatologist, not least because some retinol creams are only available with a prescription. For the less concentrated creams, Kat Burki recommends “starting three nights a week and testing the reaction before going further. If the dose is reasonable and the skin not too sensitive, it should be possible to use it once a day,” she adds.

Is retinol suitable for all ages?

It's not really a question of age, but rather of objectives. Retinol, initially used to treat acne - and therefore young skin - also works wonders on the signs of aging - and therefore more mature skin. When it comes to anti-aging, Kat Burki recommends it “ between the ages of 20 and 30, as a preventive measure, to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles ”.

Cream or oil? Which form should retinol take?

All the experts agree on this point: the form is of little importance, as retinol is soluble in both creams and oils. So it's a question of affinity. It can be found in many types of product, including serums, boosters, fluids, lotions and moisturizers," says Paula Begoun. It simply depends on your skin type and preferences.”

Whatever form it takes, don't forget your SPF the next day. Because retinol's action on the skin can make it more fragile: “ It's very important to use sun protection, because retinol-treated skin is sensitized and reactive”, advises Valérie Leduc.

What to use retinol with? What are the best combinations?

“A retinol based product can be used with any combination of skincare products,” explains Paula Begoun. “It works perfectly with other products.” Kat Burki adds, “it’s important that retinol is absorbed swiftly. It’s better when it’s not too viscous. Oils and creams can prevent swift absorption so it’s better to apply them after applying retinol.”

But the best combinations are often the simplest. Nadine Pomarède explains: “You can combine it with other antioxidants such as vitamins C and E for complete antioxidant action. You can also use it with hyaluronic acid which has an anti-ageing effect and is also hydrating and helps to counterbalance the drying effect of retinol, especially when you first start to use it.” If you have very sensitive skin it’s best to use it with anti-inflammatory products like “hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, green tea or jojoba oil,” advises Valérie Leduc.

Is there such a thing as “green” retinol?

Yes, bakuchiol!

This plant-derived ingredient, found in the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia plant, acts like retinol. It is also found in food in the form of carotenes (derived from vitamin A). "The foods richest in retinol are cod liver oil and organ meats, while the most commonly consumed products are butter, cream, cheese and eggs. Carotenes are found mainly in orange fruits and vegetables, as well as green vegetables “ , explains Valérie Leduc.

And it's the star ingredient (along with Vitamin C) in our Oh My Cream Skincare Plumping Cream , arich cream that moisturizes, firms, boosts radiance and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, while leaving skin nourished and comfortable.

Retinol alternative skin care products from Oh My Cream

Indie Lee Retinol Alternative Cream: This creamy-textured face cream offers a gentle alternative to retinol thanks to its rambutan extracts, capable of reducing the appearance of fine lines, improving skin elasticity and firming. Ideal for retinol-deficient skin!
Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil: This lightweight face oil creates a shield against external aggressions and restores the comfort and hydration of fragile skin, leaving skin fresh and glowing.
Patyka Pro-Collagen Lift Mask: This night mask with retinol-like effects boosts collagen production to firm, fill wrinkles and restore skin elasticity, while boosting radiance thanks to its cutting-edge plant active ingredients.
Herbivore Moon Fruit Retinol Alternative: Combining bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinol, and antioxidant-rich superfruits, this night mask smoothes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles without irritation, and ensures hydrated skin and rested features, just like after a good night's sleep.

The retinol selection

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